By Alison McGowan
May 31, 2011

This morning once again I woke up in paradise – this time in Pousada Tanara. My eyes opened to an unforgettable scene of dawn breaking over Tiririca beach, a small bay flanked by palm trees and Atlantic rainforest; in the background the sound of the powerful ocean waves which are what have made this such a mecca for surfers. The word tanara” means nature in Pataxo Indian dialect and the 5 rooms of Pousada Tanara blend comfort with nature in an extraordinary location – 10 minutes walk in one direction from all the shopping and nightlife of Itacare village and minutes’ walk in the other direction to Praia da Costa and Praia da Ribeira. Praia de Tiririca is just down the path.

Rooms and bathrooms here are all different and most are small, with steps leading up to them or down to them, but what the pousada lacks in terms of size is more than made up for by the character and quirkiness of the place, the tropical foliage all around, the beautiful deck overlooking the ocean, the superb breakfasts and the wonderful hospitality of Nele and Marcos. For anyone looking for a beautiful place to chill seconds from the beach or surf but still be walking distance from the village you really couldn’t find a better place, and I certainly did not want to leave.

Itacare is situated on the Cocoa Coast of Bahia, the stretch which runs between Ilheus, 65km to the south and Salvador 230kms to the north, just where the Rio das Contas river meets the ocean. The town itself has indigenous origins but became known as Itacare as early as 1732 and countless grandiose mansions attest to the wealth of the town and region during the cocoa boom of the early 20th century.

Rediscovered some 40 years ago by surfers, the town has grown rapidly and there are now countless pousadas, bars, restaurants and nightlife. But for those who prefer more peace or who prefer more ecological tourism there are some wonderful trails and palm tree fringed deserted beaches nearby, many set in spectacular scenery, with mountains and atlantic forest as a backdrop.

Not To Be Missed
– surfing on Tiririca, Engenhoca, Jeribucacu and Prainha beaches
– capoeira, shopping and nightlife in Itacare
– eco adventures: rafting, tiroleza, whale watching (July- November)
– side trips to Taipus de Fora and Peninsula de Marau
– good value, great food at Maluca Beleza restaurant

Starpoints
* Best surf peaks of northeastern Brazil on your doorstep
* Wonderful breakfasts with home made delicacies
* Views over Tiririca beach from lounging deck
* Belgian/Brazilian hosts Nele and Marcos

Try a different place if…
… you prefer pool and spacious grounds to a beach location close to the village

Alison is a British writer, musician, and marketing consultant, based in Rio de Janeiro. She can be contacted on alison@hiddenpousadasbrazil.com. Visit her site at http://www.hiddenpousadasbrazil.com/.

Previous articles by Alison:

Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Vila dos Orixas Boutique Hotel, Bahia
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Casa da Carmen e do Fernando, Rio de Janeiro
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada Lagoa das Cores, Chapada Diamantina, Bahia
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada Naturalia, Ilha Grande (Abraao), Rio de Janeiro
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Ilha de Toque Toque Boutique Hotel, São Sebastiao, São Paulo
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Eco-Rio Lodge, Bahia
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Amazon Tupana Lodge, Manaus, Amazonas
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada Luar do Rosario, Milho Verde, Minas Gerais
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada Chal Oasis, Galinhos, Rio Grande do Norte
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada Beijo do Vento, Bahia
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Artjungle Eco Lodge & Spa, Itacare, Bahia
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada 0031, Cumbuco, Cear
Brazil: Maguire’s Guesthouse, Manaus, Amazonas
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Hotel Casa do Amarelindo, Salvador, Bahia
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Hotel BeloAlter, Alter do Chão, Par
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Fazenda Santa Marina, Santana dos Montes, Minas Gerais
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Casarão da Amaznia, Soure, Ilha de Marajo, Par
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Casa Mila, nr. Ubatuba, São Paulo
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Casa Beleza, Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Bambu Bamboo Pousada and Spa, Parati, Rio de Janeiro
Random Ramblings on the Weather in Brazil
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada Beijamar, Bahia
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Hotel 7 Colinas, Pernambuco
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada dos Quatro Cantos, Pernambuco
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada Estrela do Mar, Bahia
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada Vivenda, Rio de Janeiro
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada da Terra, Minas Gerais
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada Mirante de Pipa, Rio Grande do Norte
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada do Caju, Alagoas
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Pousada da Amendoeira, Alagoas
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Estalagem Caiuia, Alagoas
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Lagoa do Cassange, Bahia
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Ponta do Muta, Bahia
Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Santa Clara, Boipeba, Bahia

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