By Alison McGowan
March 26, 2008

Pousada Ponta do Muta was a wonderful find. We had already heard good things, but had decided not to stay there as the prices in February were outside the range of this selection of pousadas. What we didn’t realise was that unlike many places prices here drop by almost half outside high season, making it extremely good value between March and November.

Located just a stones’ throw from the pier where you arrive by boat, there are 10 nicely appointed en-suite rooms, eight of which have a seaview. There is a great reception area which doubles as breakfast room/bar, and there is also bar service on the beach with special telephone communication which means you hardly have to leave your sunbed to order the caipirinhas. For those who want more action the village with its excellent restaurants is only a 5 minute walk away.

The owner, Simone, wasn’t there when we visited but the marks of good service were everywhere. Luzimar, the receptionist, made us feel so at home that we really didn’t want to leave. The mark of an exceptional pousada!

The Location
Barra Grande is usually the first place you come to on the Peninsula of Marau if you arrive by boat. It’s a tiny place, with just a few sandy tracks, most of which seem to lead from the village square to the port or the beach. The pier where you arrive is only around 5 minutes walk from the square and there are always porters with wheelbarrows around to help with baggage. Access is extremely difficult by road and the only cars you will ever see are the occasional 4x4s which manage to make it up from Itacare on the mainland.

For a place which is so small, the village is surprisingly full of small boutique type shops and restaurants, many of which are excellent and reasonably priced. There is a gentle, relaxed and welcoming atmosphere everywhere, which makes it very easy to meet both fellow travellers and locals.

Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Ponta do Muta, BahiaStarpoints at Pousada Ponta do Muta
*Superb beach side location, near the pier and the village
*Lovely reception with rustic charm and gentle Brasilian music
*Telephone link to the pousada bar when you need service on the beach
*Majority of rooms with seaview at no extra charge

Try a different place…
– if you need a swimming pool in addition to the crystal clear sea
– if you don’t like walking on sand or dirt tracks

Alison is a British writer, musician, and marketing consultant, based in Rio de Janeiro. She can be contacted on Visit her blog at

Previous articles by Alison:

Brazil: Hidden Pousadas – Santa Clara, Boipeba, Bahia

Can’t make this up