By Jason Bermingham
Just one metro stop away from the centrally located Praça da Sé, pedestrians emerge from the São Paulo underground into what appears to be the heart of Japan. The district's main street, Rua Galvão Bueno, is adorned with red Oriental arches. Store fronts advertise herbal cures and classes in meditation. Even the local McDonalds sign is spelled out in Japanese characters. Liberdade, meaning Liberty in Portuguese, is São Paulo's Little Japan. And it is just one of the many ethnic enclaves that keep the traditions of Brazil's early immigrants alive today.
Japanese immigration into Brazil began in the early 20th century, when the steamer Kasato Maru docked in the Santos harbor. Over 150 Japanese families were onboard - most fleeing the crop failures and earthquakes which plagued their homeland. To these immigrants, the voyage to Brazil represented a chance to start their lives anew and to find work on the country's rural coffee plantations. It did not, however, imply leaving their culture behind.
The Liberdade district today is home to some 600,000 Japanese descendants. Considered the world's largest Japanese community outside of Japan it is a nucleus of Japanese heritage within Latin America. Some claim that Liberdade is more Japanese today than even excessively Westernized Tokyo. But, in truth, Liberdade is much more than simply a microcosm of Japan. Many of the second, third and fourth generation Japanese descen-dants who currently reside in Liberdade have never set foot in Japan and consider themselves fully Brazilian. Also, they share the district with descendants from other East Asian countries like China, Vietnam, Thailand and Korea. In this sense, Liberdade is a melting pot where Latin America, Japan and East Asia merge into a single, diverse cultural reality.
Travelers can begin their visit at the Liberdade Station on the north-south Jabaquara/Tucuruvi metro line. Generally considered safer and friendlier than the nearby city center, Liberdade offers several lodging and dining options at a reasonable price. There are also a variety of close-by sights where it's possible to learn more about the district's heritage. The Museum of Japanese Immigration, for example, is just three blocks east of the São Joaquim metro station and offers a comprehensive look at the Japanese presence in Brazil over the past two centuries.
Liberdade is also famous for its annual festivals. On the evening of December 31, the streets fill to commemorate the beginning of the New Year in true Oriental fashion. In April, traditionally dressed children carry statues of the Buddha, in honor of his birth. The largest celebration, however, is in July, when over one hundred thousand people gather for Tanabata Matsuri, a folklore event known as the Festival of the Stars. Travelers visiting São Paulo outside of these times have an alternative. Every Sunday, an Oriental street fair is held in the Liberdade Square.
Japanese immigrant Keiko Hadano sells her Bonsai trees at a street fair held in Liberdade Square each Sunday.
Jason Bermingham works as a writer/musician in São Paulo, Brazil.
Brazilian country singer Rodrigo Haddad will play an acoustic set with Jason Bermingham. Bob Dylan, Johnny Cash, Rolling Stones, and more. Meet ex-pats and English speakers. Cover: R$ 4.00. Rua Cristiano Vianna, 358, Pinheiros. Telephone (11) 3062-3232 www.rodrigohaddad.com www.jasonbermingham.com or e-mail at jasonbermingham@uol.com.br
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