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Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Calypso, Trancoso, Bahia

By Alison McGowan February 8, 2012 The golden light streams through the windows of my high-ceilinged whitewashed suite at the Pousada Calypso and once again I smile, knowing I have found another hidden gem: a beautiful Portuguese/Brazilian owned place with great accommodation, set in lush tropical gardens, only minutes from all the action of the famous Quadrado square. There are 10 suites here, including lofts, bungalows and more standard rooms and all are well maintained with air-conditioning, fans, flat screen TVs and excellent bathrooms. There is also a great sitting/breakfast area full of local art and handicrafts. "No pool though?" "On purpose" replies owner Mari. "We are really close to some of the best beaches in Brazil and that‘s the place to be". For those who have to be near water there is a lovely gazebo with a whirlpool surrounded by tropical plants and birds in the centre of the pousada but I for one would take Mari‘s advice and take the short stroll down to the sand. Trancoso lies forty five minutes drive to the south of Arraial d‘Ajuda and an hour from the balsa or ferry which brings you over from Porto Seguro. Originally an Indian fishing community it was founded by the Jesuit priests in 1583 and the famous church of St John the Baptist of the Indians was built on the site of the original 16th construction, at the top of a cliff overlooking a never-ending turquoise sea. From here it is just a short walk down to the beaches and beach bars of Nativos, Trancoso and Coqueiros This is a place which manages to combine the best of the old and the new, the chic and the laid back. Boutique shops now inhabit the colourful former fishermen‘s cottages round the quadrado or main square which is the focal point of the town and restaurants spread out onto the grass with pretty table cloths and candles and pretty prices to match. This is a place where you can get as much action as you want - from snorkelling, golf, tennis, mountain biking, horse-riding, surfing and kitesurfing to capoeira and forró dance lessons. The nightlife also offers choice with restaurants vying with bars and all night dancing places. But Trancoso also has its gentle side. It is a super friendly place where people talk to you in the streets and the pace of life is much slower than a normal beach resort. For me one of the best things to do is just to go with the flow, sleep in (with earplugs!) and chill out, soaking in the beauty of an extraordinary place as yet unspoilt by mass tourism. Not To Be Missed - shopping for artesanato (local handicrafts) - the quadrado at full moon when it often rises full red - restaurants : Capim Santo, Maritaka and Cantinho Doce - portinha kilo restaurant at lunchtime - Jonas‘ beach bar - beaches of Rio da Barra and Biribiri Starpoints * Location right near the quadrado * Excellent value, beautiful accommodation * Friendly knowledgeable owners Try a different place if... ... you need a pool or if you don‘t want to be near the action Alison is a British writer, musician, and marketing consultant, based in Rio de Janeiro. She can be contacted on alison@hiddenpousadasbrazil.com. Visit her site at http://www.hiddenpousadasbrazil.com/. Previous articles by Alison: Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Capim Santo, Trancoso, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Maris, Paraty, Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Guesthouse Bianca, Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Casa Cool Beans, Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Aratinga Inn, Ilha Grande (Abraao), Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Chez les Rois, Manaus, Amazonas Five Exceptional Beach Destinations in Brazil Brazil: Relaxation and Rejuvenation in Bahia's Eco-paradises Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Casa Taruma, Conceicao de Jacarei, Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Tanara, Itacare, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Encanto da Lua, Marau, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Vila dos Orixas Boutique Hotel, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Fazenda Baia Grande, South Pantanal (Miranda), Mato Grosso do Sul Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Casa da Carmen e do Fernando, Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Palafitas Lodge, Rondonia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Lagoa das Cores, Chapada Diamantina, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Mangueira, Boipeba (Morere), Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Naturalia, Ilha Grande (Abraao), Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Cote Sud, Porto da Rua, Alagoas Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Ilha de Toque Toque Boutique Hotel, Sao Sebastiao, Sao Paulo Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Hotel Spa Casinha Branca, Bananal, nr. Paraty, Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Eco-Rio Lodge, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Castelinho 38, Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Amazon Tupana Lodge, Manaus, Amazonas Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada do Capao, Serro, Minas Gerais Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Luar do Rosario, Milho Verde, Minas Gerais Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada d‘Oleo de Guignard, Tiradentes, Minas Gerais Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Chalé Oasis, Galinhos, Rio Grande do Norte Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Bela Vista, Novo Airão, Amazonas Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Beijo do Vento, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Agua de Coco, Ceara Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Artjungle Eco Lodge & Spa, Itacare, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Alcino Estalagem, Lençois, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada 0031, Cumbuco, Ceará Brazil: Maguire's Guesthouse, Manaus, Amazonas Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Hotel Casa do Amarelindo, Salvador, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Hotel BeloAlter, Alter do Chão, Pará Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Fazenda Santa Marina, Santana dos Montes, Minas Gerais Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Casarão da Amazônia, Soure, Ilha de Marajo, Pará Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Casa Mila, nr. Ubatuba, São Paulo Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Casa Beleza, Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Bambu Bamboo Pousada and Spa, Parati, Rio de Janeiro Random Ramblings on the Weather in Brazil Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Beijamar, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Hotel 7 Colinas, Pernambuco Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada dos Quatro Cantos, Pernambuco Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Estrela do Mar, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Vivenda, Rio de Janeiro Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada da Terra, Minas Gerais Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada Mirante de Pipa, Rio Grande do Norte Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada do Caju, Alagoas Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Pousada da Amendoeira, Alagoas Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Estalagem Caiuia, Alagoas Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Lagoa do Cassange, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Ponta do Muta, Bahia Brazil: Hidden Pousadas - Santa Clara, Boipeba, Bahia

2/8/2012