| |
|
|
Journey through the Fjords of Patagonia
|
By Marilyn Diggs
December 19, 2008
Ahoy, nature lovers and adventurers. How about an eight-day boat trip guided by experienced explorers into one of the world‘s last untouched ecosystems? Cruise inside sea passages, fly-fish secret coves, kayak waterways, trek lush forests and gaze at hanging glaciers one day; then pamper yourself in a luxurious thermal spa the next. Chile´s Northern Patagonia, a wilderness begging to be explored, is on its way to becoming a world-class ecotourism destination. Even so, it is still off-the-beaten-track, perfect for those with wanderlust who relish solitude. Navigating deep into calm ocean passages and through a maze of islands is many a water-lover´s dream. The wish comes true in Chile, where mainland Patagonia fractures into a myriad of islands formed by millennium volcanoes, geographical shifting and melting glacial ice.
The trip begins in Puerto Montt, Chile, where a private charter plane flies travelers to Melinka port in the Guaitecas Archipelago, declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 2008. Next, you board the comfortable, 8-passenger motor yacht Noctiluca named after Patagonia´s luminous plankton. Made from Patagonian cypress wood, it combines traditional craftsmanship of the region with the latest technology. Chile´s best wines accompany the delicious meals served on board.
Anchors away, as seafarers head for the first destination - Jéchica Island. Spy on sea lions, sea otters, regional birds, dolphins and if Neptune is willing, the great blue whale. As the boat heads towards sheltered fjords in the west, it passes Corcovado Gulf, a spawning place for this rare whale species.
 Jéchica Island
After two days at sea, passengers dock at Isla Jéchica - over seven thousand hectares of primeval nature and postcard vistas. Travelers bunk at the Jéchica Island Retreat, which is completely integrated with nature and the delicate ecosystem. Three unobtrusive wooden cabins play hide and seek in the emerald flora.
Trekking excursions lead hikers to unique vegetation (such as sphagnum peat) in the ancient Evergreen Forest, secluded seashores, misty lagoons and the quiet marina. Austral dolphins and seals play in the bay, while the Magellan woodpecker, austral seagull and black-browed albatross circle above. There are over 50 species of land and sea birds, migrant and stationary, which breed on this island.
The first people to colonize the Chilean Patagonia canals were the Chonos Indians. They traveled the archipelago islands in canoes (dalcas) in search of food and shelter, wearing only a leather cloak and loincloth. Spaniards recorded their presence as early as the second half of the 16th century. Until recently, this area has remained relatively untouched because of its isolation. Sea kayaking through the fjords lets one re-live history and at the same time get close to the dolphins, cormorants and penguins. After an invigorating day of hiking, boating, kayaking and photographing, guests relax beside the fireplace in the cozy clubhouse bar and restaurant.
Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa
A morning´s voyage departing from Jéchica Island ends at Dorita Bay, the site of one of Chile´s most prestigious hot-spring resorts. Visitors to Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa (pictured at the top of the article) find active tourism options (hiking, biking, kayaking), a relaxing spa with thalassotherapy (healing related to the sea), delectable meals and rustic-chic rooms. The impressive architecture of the wooden lodge was inspired by 18th C. Jesuit churches.
Guides take guests on hikes to places such as the Hanging Glacier on the western edge of a gigantic ice field, inside Queulat National Park. Hikers cross a suspended wooden bridge over a surging river and trek through the misty forest to the Tempanos Lagoon where a boat transports them even closer to the turquoise ice table. The threads that unravel from the blue ice are actually gushing waterfalls tumbling down sheer rock.
Water sports like fly-fishing and kayaking take sport enthusiasts into the fjords, channels and lagoons. After all that exercise, you relax in the spa‘s soothing hot-springs pools both outside and indoors, compliments of five nearby volcanoes.
 San Rafael Glacier Up Close
The last adventure is via the Patagonia Express catamaran to the San Rafael Lagoon for the unforgettable iceberg expedition. The 70-passenger, luxury two-story cruiser serving gourmet meals makes the all-day trip top-end. The catamaran glides over inlets and sea, past timbered hills and snow tipped Andes. Aquamarine ice sculptures dot the lagoon in front of the 2km-long and more than 70m-tall turquoise face of San Rafael Glacier. Zodiacs (inflatable motorboats) take passengers close to the blue giant, part of the Northern Ice Fields. The excursion ends at 10:30 p.m. at Chacabuco on the mainland at a lovely hotel. The next day travelers follow the famous Carretera Austral highway back to civilization. This journey which explores one of our planet‘s last frontiers - the fjords of Northern Patagonia - is an opportunity not to be missed.
More information
About the trip: www.patagoniafiords.com and www.patagoniacanales.com
Guaiteca Archipielago and Jéchica Island: www.guaitecas.com and www.islajechica.cl
Hotel Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa: www.patagonia-connection.com
Marilyn Diggs is an American living in Brazil for over twenty years. She is a freelance writer, artist, lecturer and author of nine books - two about Brazilian art history. As an art reporter and travel writer she has two monthly columns in Sunday News, Brazil's English language newspaper that circulates in Săo Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Brasilia. She has written for the Miami Herald and Museum International, a UNESCO publication. Marilyn has a degree in Latin American Studies and is often contracted by intercultural training services to give talks on expat challenges. www.mdiggs.com
Previous articles by Marilyn:
Around Brazil: Japí Mountains, When Nature Calls
Around Brazil: Living the Amazon
Brazil: A Spa that Takes Care of Body and Soul
Around South America: Puyuhuapi - Chile's Patagonian Secret
Around South America: Looking for Adventure in Chile´s Patagonia
Around South America: Road Trip through a Forgotten Land - Aisén, Chile
Conquering Cape Horn
Around Brazil: Hang-Gliding Over Rio
Around Brazil: Sailing in Paraty
Santiago: Gateway to the Chilean Experience
The Enchanting Easter Island
Nature and Nurturing in Chile‘s Lake Region
Chilean Patagonia: Going to the Ends of the Earth
Around Brazil: Adventure in the Pantanal and Bonito Part 2
Around Brazil: Adventure in the Pantanal and Bonito Part 1
Spending the Night in the Lost City of the Incas - Machu Picchu
Brazil: Happy Moonlit Trails To You
Brazil: Paradise Found - Fernando de Noronha
|
12/19/2010
|
|
