By Jason Bermingham
Musicians can play and pay their way aroung Great Britain, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand. But what would happen if someone tried busking in Bolivia, Peru, Argentina, or Brazil?
So you‘re taking the guitar to South America. Is that such a bright idea? The evening you find yourself drifting down an Amazon tributary, two caipirinhas in your blood stream and a piranha for a capo, you‘ll pat yourself on the back for the foresight. But trapped inside a rattling bus on the Bolivian altiplano - you, your backpack, and a Martin six-string wedged between a crate of tomatoes and a diesel mechanic named Pedro - you‘ll wonder what the hell you were thinking.
Such is the life of a busker - and one man who knows about passing the hat in South America is my friend William Sutton. Will is a writer who moonlights as a musician - and during his stint in São Paulo, he played many gigs in the city‘s pubs and parks. Last year, Will and his girlfriend Jane left São Paulo on a five-month, overland adventure around South America. They took Will‘s Washburn along for the ride. Was it worth the bother? The drunk American who fell into the Amazon while singing Hotel California seemed to think so...
Jason: Last year you traveled around South America with a guitar. What countries did you visit? Which were most receptive to buskers?
Will: We traveled from Brazil through Argentina to Tierra del Fuego, back up through Chile and Argentina, then Bolivia and Peru, down the Amazon and back down the Brazilian coast. Brazil and Argentina seemed more friendly to musicians, I don't know whether because they're accustomed to it or because finances aren't so tight.
Jason: Is it possible to earn your room and board by busking in South America?
Will: Possible, yes, but you wouldn't want to rely on it. There's nothing worse than arriving in a dusty Bolivian town after a nightmarish bus ride and telling yourself you have to get a gig before finding a bed. We tried to do a deal for an Amazon cabin in exchange for playing in the bar. The captain seemed receptive and said he'd be our impresario. But when it came down to it, they didn't even give us a discount. More frequently it's a kind of a Bobby McGee situation, where the guitar helps get a lift or meet other people, which can cut your costs in other ways.
Jason: So what do you say to musicians going to South America? Is hauling a guitar along worth the bother?
Will: Don't do it! Just joking. It's a hassle carrying the thing and worrying about it on buses, etc., but it's worth it for the reactions it draws - both from locals and other travelers. If you play guitar, think carefully about what kind of case you're going to take. I went for a soft case, which allowed me to squish it between my knees on Bolivian jeeps and squeeze it into overhead bus racks. But I could never let someone else pack it. I had to take it on board buses and planes - despite complaints. Make sure the handles and straps are comfortable and easy to use. The best way to avoid having your instrument stolen is to keep it on your back at all times. Bring enough strings/reeds/accoutrements to last the whole trip. While Brazil produces reasonably cheap strings, other countries don't, and you can be landed with a hefty bill for imported goods. One last tip: I met several people who'd bought three-quarter size or children's guitars. They were light, maneuverable, and the sound was just about as big as my hefty Washburn.
Jason: What about gigs?
Will: Possible, but don't expect to get rich. Some guys I met got gigs just by walking from bar to bar in busy seaside towns; others by staying put in one place, asking around and arranging things more formally - sometimes just permission to busk. But, to be honest, I ended up deciding it was rarely worth the stress of negotiating payment. Where there's money to pay you, there are locals to compete with; where there isn't, you might as well play for fun. It's all up to your attitude and your luck.
Jason: Which songs from your repertoire do South Americans enjoy most?
Will: They tend to like the old rock and roll stuff, right back to Chuck Berry and through to the Rolling Stones and Beatles, of course. But occasionally you get some really surprising requests. I‘ve been asked for Echo and the Bunnymen and other little British rock groups that I‘m surprised they‘ve even heard of. I tend to be a bit embarrassed to sing in Portuguese or Spanish though.
Jason: What was your most memorable experience while playing in South America?
Will: I got moved on by police in Sao Paulo. I don't think they distinguished between busker with guitar and tramp without guitar. But more fun was the time on my Amazon trip. We had a late night singsong, fuelled by jungle caipirinhas - no ice, fearsome strength - and a medical student from Chicago got so excited singing Hotel California he fell off the boat. The crew thought this was hilarious, even more so when he offered a reward for his glasses, which they duly found on the riverbed the next morning.
BOX: Hey Mr. Tambourine Man, play a song for me...
1) Busking works best in Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay, and Chile. It‘s tougher to earn cash on the streets of Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, Guyana, Suriname, and French Guiana. You might make a few Sols in Lima and the touristy towns of Peru. Paraguay is risky and Bolivia nearly impossible. Target places that cater to families, like malls and parks. The subway is too heavily policed. Nightspots are a good choice.
2) Don‘t wear old, worn out clothes. The starving artist routine doesn‘t work for gringos in South America. Go for colorful, entertaining.
3) Play for children. Parents will pay to see their kids entertained. Learn fun songs like Old McDonald‘s Farm. If you play harmonica, the chugging-choo-choo sound of a train is always a hit.
4) Put out a sign. Let people know where you‘re from. If you‘re in town for a few days, make yourself available for gigs.
5) Play somewhere quiet, where people can sit and listen.
6) Play songs people know. Brazilian musician Emmerson Nogueira has made a career (and sold thousands of CDs) by playing acoustic cover versions of popular English songs. Top requests: Hotel California, Wish You Were Here, Like A Rolling Stone, Wonderwall, Johnny B. Goode.
7) Put some coins in your guitar case before you start and pocket contributions as you play. People are shy about being the first to throw in change - and nobody will add to a pot that‘s overflowing.
8) Don‘t busk as if your next meal depends on it (even if it does). Have fun! Look people in the eye. See if you can get them to smile.
[Oringinally published by Speak Up and South American Explorer magazines]
Jason Bermingham works as a writer/musician in São Paulo, Brazil. If you enjoy Bob Dylan covers, send him an e-mail at jasonbermingham@uol.com.br. He‘ll set you up with a table at his next gig.
To read previous articles by Jason click the links below:
Brazil: Improve Your English - Make Every Sentence a Song
Sao Paulo's Liberdade District: Where Latin America Meets the Orient
Brazil: Deconstructing Sao Paulo
A Good Gig in Sao Paulo
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