Still haven’t decided where to spend New Year’s! Why not discover one of Brazil’s most spectacular locations in the heart of the Pantanal. Bonito and Serra da Bodoquena, in the southeast of Mato Grosso do Sul, is a true paradise for nature and adventure lovers. Eight-day package, includes flight, hotel, local transport, tours etc. Limited number of places remaining.
When: Leaving São Paulo on Dec. 27
Price: 3 x R$698 or R$2,095 per person (double room)
For more information contact Jacqueline at (011) 3242 2455 or email valenciaturismo@valenciaturismo.com.br

If you are staying in São Paulo for New Year’s, one event worth checking out on Dec. 31 is the traditional São Silvestre 15-kilometer marathon, now in its 78th year. Registration to take part in the race is already complete, but you can still go along to give moral support to the more than 15,000 runners who will take part this year. The marathon, which starts and finishes on Av. Paulista, is one of the country’s oldest and normally attracts a good international participation. Last year’s race was won by 26-year old Ethopian Tesfaye Jifar, who completed the course in a record 44 minutes and 15 secs. Kenyian runner Paul Tergat is the race record holder in terms of number of wins, with five titles. The women’s race starts at 15h30, while the men’s starts at 17h00.
For more information see www.Sãosilvestre.com.br

By Monica Trentini
One of Brazil’s most famous culinary traditions is the weekend churrasco. Unlike an American BBQ, a churrasco is composed mainly of top quality meats with very few extras.” Churrascos can start anytime and go on into the night, with people coming and going throughout. Read on for pointers on having a successful “Gaucho-style” churrasco at your home.

In order to create an authentic experience for you, I have interviewed the Trentini brothers from Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul – the hot-spot for the best churrasco of all time. As William is my husband, and Hardy, my brother-in-law, I can give a first-hand un-biased recommendation for their churrasco preparing skills. Actually, William is more of a “churrasqueiro”, but Hardy makes a mean caipirinha and his girl friend Cyntia comes in with the Molho de Campagna and the Farofa (read on for recipes.) I try to help by making salads to complement their efforts at the grill. After a successful churrasco, no one will even eat a cookie!

All right, so what do you need to buy in order to prepare for the event? Let’s start with the meat. A general rule of thumb is to buy approximately 500 grams for each man and 300 for each woman. The basic meats William buys for a standard churrasco are linguia, picanha, lombo and chicken.

Picanha tends to be everyone’s favorite. William recommends you always buy the smallest picanhas possible. The maximum weight of a picanha is 1.2 kg. Anything larger includes a different part of the cow – coxão mole. Smaller picanhas also tend to be softer. A true Gaucho, William admits to foregoing all the extras at churrascos he has cooked and eating one kilo of picanha all by himself! One of the benefits of being the churrasqueiro is that you will always have your choice of what is being served. If you end up buying too much picanha (for fear William might show up) you can always bake whole picanhas later in the oven. (see recipes)

As for the linguia, there are different types. There are Calabreza, Toscana, chicken and others. There is no real secret to buying linguia. Trust your eye and the validity on the package. William’s personal preference is Toscana, which is a mild sausage. “Apimentado” means spicy, so check for that on the packaging!

When choosing a lombo, buy one that is whole. Many times, they will be in the frozen section of the supermarket, or you can get a fresh “lombo inteiro” at your local butcher. William buys his “sem tempero” (without seasoning.)

When William buys chicken to grill, he usually buys it on the bone, since it is more flavorful and juicy this way.

Please read recipes to find seasonings and meat preparation pointers.

As for the other ingredients, you will need to decide what else you would like to serve. According to Hardy, the churrasco came about because the Gachos (cowboys in southern Brazil and Argentina) had a very limited diet. While they were camping, they ate mainly meat and drank chimarrão, a strong tea that they shared by passing the cuia, adding boiling water when necessary. When they had leftovers from the churrasco, they would make arroz carreteiro (see recipes.) In other words, extras are really optional, but most choose to serve them anyway.

Foreigners sometimes refer to Farofa as sawdust. It is dry and gritty, but it adds flavor to the meat and contains some of the meat drippings. Farofa also goes well with rice. Most dab their meat into it before eating it, or pick it up with their fork with rice and meat. Eating it plain might not be such a pleasant experience.

Another accompaniment you might like is Molho de Campanha. It is similar to a Mexican salsa, only it is not usually hot and spicy and the recipe does not call for cilantro, only parsley. Molho de Campagna is always served chunky, never beaten or blended. It goes well with sausage and the other meats.

As for salads, I have two easy recipes for you to try, but any green salad will do.

Another “extra” at a churrasco is the caipirinha (directly translated as “the little farm girl”) One essential part of the caipirinha is the lime selection. Picking out the best ones will make your caipirinhas even better. Hardy says limes with thin skins are best. He rolls them applying pressure to release the juices. After washing them, he cuts them in half and then in quarters. At this point, Hardy cuts most of the peel off before cutting once again and adding the limes to the cup. If the limes have a large white core, he cuts it out. After he has enough limes cut, (approximately 1 1/2 limes per drink) he adds 2 heaping tablespoons of sugar per 8 oz. Drink. Next, he mashes the limes and sugar together until mixed and adds cachaa and ice. Hardy says crushed ice is preferable since it cools the drink faster and dilutes the alcohol a little more. Nega Ful and Esprito de Minas are some higher quality cachaas, and 51 and Velho Barreiro are easily found in the supermarket and perfectly fine choices. There is a place called “Barbolla” in Morumbi (Ruas dos 3 Irmãos, 460, phone 3722-0792), and another called Cachaaria Paulista in Pinheiros (Rua Mourato Coelho, 593, phone 3815-4556). Both have numerous types of cachaa. These cachaas are not all for caipirinhas. Many are sipping cachaas, which have different tastes depending on their barrels and brewing techniques. Some of them can be quite expensive.

Anyone who likes meat will definitely love a good churrasco. Hardy claims the churrascaria is the largest growing new type of restaurant in the US. While you are here, don’t miss going to some of the famous churrascarias here in São Paulo. Our favorite churrascaria is called “Caminhos do Sul.” It is on Regis Bittencourt, 3 kilometers past the last exit for Embu das Artes on the right. Try the “Filet Mignon na Manteiga.” It is my personal favorite.

If you are really up for making it yourself, you need to start by approaching the grill. Most grills in Brazil require charcoal. William buys one bag of charcoal for a 3-4 picanha party, but it is always wise to have extra. There are many ways to light the coals and keep them burning well. One way is to fill a stale pãozinho with alcohol, place it in the coals and light it. There are also many choices of starters at the supermarket. Most supermarkets have a grilling section with all the bells and whistles to choose from. The important part is to light the coals and let them burn for a while before you start grilling. When the coals are red and the flames are low, you can add the meat. Generally, most start with the sausage (linguia). As the fat of the sausage drips, it will feed the fire. William places lombo and picanha on medium heat, and the chicken and sausage on the hotter places. As the linguia and the picanha are ready, William takes them off the grill and cuts bite-sized pieces for people to pick up with their fingers or toothpicks for the more civilized guests. Everyone who knows what to do (the “diretoria”) stands around the grill and socializes with the churrasqueiro. This way, they are guaranteed the hottest and best choices of meat. People come with plates to partake of the chicken and lombo, and larger pieces of linguia and picanha. Then they gravitate towards the salads and other fixings. If people stand around with plates or balance them on their laps, this is known as eating ” Americana.” Brazilians prefer eating with a table in front of them; not set formally, but a place to rest their plates while they eat. No matter what you are serving, always have knives and forks available. Brazilians even eat cupcakes with forks.

Linguia
Grill it and after it is cut, you can sprinkle lime juice on it for added flavor.
Lombo
Marinade:
Cover with minced garlic and lightly salt. Squeeze lime juice on it and let it sit for 1-2 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

Towards the end of grilling, cover the top with parmesan cheese. Allow this to melt a little before slicing thinly and serving.

Picanha
Coat picanha steaks with rock salt before grilling.

Cutting picanha steaks and slicing:
Leave the fat on the picanha. Cut steaks across to the tip.(6-7 2 inch steaks) After grilling, slice steaks thinly so each piece has a small strip of fat.

Chicken
Marinade:
Salt and pepper chicken pieces. Add olive oil, oregano and lime. Let sit for 1-2 hours before grilling.

Farofa
In a frying pan, melt butter, fry onion and garlic. Add beaten eggs and cook. Optional: Add bacon pieces, olives, banana, and/or hot peppers. Add farinha de mandioca (Manioc Flour), or Farofa Pronta by Yoki. Saute. (Yoki makes a great Pão de Queijo mix as well, by the way.)

Molho de Campagna
Dice tomatoes, Onions, Parsley and Green, Yellow, and/or Red Peppers. Add oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. This is standard fare. People cover their meat with it.

Arroz Carreteiro
Saute onions and olive oil. Add leftover picanha or sausage cut into very small pieces. Fry it a little bit. Add rice and salt to taste. Add water and boil until the rice is cooked.

Salads:
Mix fresh mozzarella and cut up sun dried tomatoes with olive oil. Toss in rcula. Add balsamic vinegar. Toss and serve.

Mix green beans (cooked and cooled, or straight from the can with a little juice) with sliced hearts of palm. Sliced tomatoes optional. Season with olive oil and vinegar or lime.

Your favorite potato salad is always welcome.

Broiled Picanha: Place the whole picanha fat side up in a pre-heated hot oven (about 400 degrees farenheit, 200 Celcius) Bake for 45 minutes. Turn picanha over and cover with rock salt. Put it back in the oven and continue baking for about 30 minutes or until ready.

Read on. in What’s Cooking in Rio
See page 224 for more information on Sausage (Linguia)
See page 190 for general information on beef.
See page 220 for more cuts of meat and their translations.

Vocabulary
Linguia . Sausage
Picanha.Tip of Sirloin
Coxão Mole.Sirloin
Lombo.Pork Tenderloin
Frango.Chicken
Porco.Pork
Farofa.Fried Manioc Flour
Arroz.Rice
Coentro.Cilantro
Salsinha.Parsley
Rucula.Arrugula
Vagem.Green Beans
Limão. Lime
Casca.Peel

Monica Trentini was born in Boston, Massachusetts, and was raised in Belo Horizonte and Rio de Janeiro. She lives in São Paulo with her Brazilian husband and two children. She has a cookie business, making and selling baked cookies, cookie dough and festive pizza-size cookies. If you would like more information, or if you have any comments on the article, please contact Monica Trentini at 3739-2599, 8111-5920 or cookiedoughtogo@yahoo.com

Spend four days and three nights on the exotic island of Ilha do Mel over the Carnaval period. Package includes luxury bus, on board service and guide, insurance, Pousada or Hotel with breakfast (3) and dinner (3), plus other activities mentioned below.

Parque Hotel Ilha do Mel
The island’s only hotel. Price per person

Double R$ 790.00
Triple R$ 750.00
Quadruple R$ 725.00

Pousada Praia de Braslia
Liveliest beach on the island, only breakfast served. Price per person.

Double R$ 725.00
Quadruple R$ 670.00

Schedule:

Departure on Feb. 28 at 22h00 from Av. Auro Soares de Moura Andrade, Terminal Barra Funda Metro, close to the ‘Veias Aberta’ monument (which looks like a big ‘Hand’)

Day 1
– Arrival at Pontal do Sul at around 7h00. Boat to the island
– 10h00: check in to pousada
– 12h30: Lunch (not included)
– 15h00: Outing to Fortaleza N. Sra dos Prazeres, visit the lookout point and canons, constructed to protect the bay of Paranagua.
– 20H00: Return to Pousada/Hotel. Night is free.

Day 2
– Breakfast (available from 7h30)
– 10h00: Visit the Farol lookout point and beaches in the region
– 13h00: Lunch (not included). Free afternoon to spend on the beach.
– 16h00: Return to Pousada/Hotel. Night is free.

Day 3
– Breakfast from 7h30
– 9h00: Boat trip to Praia de Encantadas, with a visit to a cave, on the south of the island, as well as beaches.
– 13h00 lunch (not included) with free leisure in the afternoon.
– 17h00: Return to Pousada/Hotel. Night is free.

Day 4
– Breakfast from 7h30
– Morning free or option trip (walk to the north of the island to spot dolphins, boat trip to other islands in the region)
– 15h00: Payment for extras
– 16h00: Boat back to the mainland
– 17h30: Departure for São Paulo. Stop for dinner on the way (not included). Arrival in São Paulo scheduled for 06h00.

For further information send an email to carnaval@www.gringoes.com stating your name and contact telephone number.

The countdown is on for Carnaval 2003, which starts on Feb. 28 this year. Samba schools around the country are already fervishly rehearsing for Brazil’s biggest annual street party. Most rehearsals are open to the public, for a small fee, and are well worth a visit. One of São Paulo’s most popular groups is Vai-Vai, which practices every Sunday from 8pm to midnight at Rua São Vicente, 276 – Bela Vista. Entrance R$2.

Carnaval in São Paulo is held at the specially created stadium called the Sambodromo (Av. Olavo Fontoura, 1209 – Santana) and the quality of its exotic floats, thundering bands and scantily clad dancers etc. is not far behind that of Rio.

São Paulo Carnaval Schedule 2003

Friday, Feb. 28

1. Barroca Zona Sul
2. Unidos de Vila Maria
3. Rosas de Ouro
4. guia de Ouro
5. Gavies da Fiel
6. Vai-Vai
7. Acadmicos do Tucuruvi

Saturday, March 1

1. Império da Casa Verde
2. Unidos do Peruche
3. Nen de Vila Matilde
4. Camisa Verde e Branco
5. Mocidade Alegre
6. Leandro de Itaquera
7. X-9 Paulistana

By Monica Trentini
That holiday is coming up again…the one where you have to cook all day and serve your family and or friends turkey and all the fix’ins. How is it possible to do it in Brazil? Some of you might be making your own Thanksgiving dinner for the first time as I did five years ago.
Well, when I need Thanksgiving tips, I go straight to my mother who has cooked dozens of turkeys and hosted many Thanksgiving celebrations. She gave me some recipes that always make my Thanksgiving dinners a success. I absolutely love her squash souffl and her piecrusts are always flaky. They make a great apple pie even greater. (see recipes)

My family moved to Brazil in 1975 and we lived here off and on until 1990. When it came time for Thanksgiving at my house, my mother always did her utmost to make it a traditional meal. Once, in 1987, my father even checked a Butterball turkey and all the other musts” in his luggage.
It arrived intact and frozen, he claims. Don’t fret. Nowadays, you can find many of the “musts” at specialty stores here in São Paulo. Casa Santa Luzia has Ocean Spray Cranberry Sauce. Empório Santa Maria has cranberry sauce by Fortnum-Mason. Be prepared to pay premium prices, though. I was unable to find canned pumpkin pie filling. If you don’t have pumpkin in cans, try replacing the canned pumpkin for a mixture of 1 C. steamed pumpkin, C. sugar, t. salt, 1 t. nutmeg, and t. ginger. If you don’t want to buy cranberries in cans, I have a recipe for something that may be a good alternative. (see recipes)

As for the turkey, you can do what my mom normally did, which is to order a turkey from your neighborhood butcher, you can buy a couple of turkeys at the supermarket a day or so before your dinner. In Brazil, it is hard to find an un-seasoned turkey. At the supermarket, you will only have one choice: seasoned by Sadia. If you really want an un-seasoned turkey, you will have to order it from your butcher, and beware. Not all butchers will be able to get one for you. I have called some butchers and there are few who can or will order them. “Peru sem tempero” is what you should ask for. I have called all the butchers in the Dicas (Newcommers Guide Book), and none of them has turkeys without seasoning. One of them, Freddi’s Carnes, has them with light seasoning (tempero suave) and will deliver. Their turkeys vary from 4-6 kilos (around 9-13 lbs). There is a chart for baking them in What’s Cooking in Rio. If you would rather not bake your own turkey, some padarias will do it for you. They have big ovens that are on all the time, and shouldn’t charge too much to bake your turkey. Alternatives to turkey? You can buy a “Chester,” which is larger than a chicken, but smaller than a turkey, or a pernil, which is a leg of pork. Both are delicious. After your turkey or other choice of meat is finished baking and it is sliced on a serving platter, my mom recommends adding a little tropical flavor by decorating the platter with pineapple, cherries, and/or orange slices.

Judy’s Butternut Squash Souffl
3T butter
2C hot mashed butternut squash
C. sugar
1/3 C. milk
t. salt
1 t. cinnamon
1 t. nutmeg
2 lg. Eggs
1 t. vanilla

Add butter to squash and stir until melted. Add all other ingredients except egg whites and beat for two minutes. Beat egg whites until stiff. Fold into the mixture. Pour into a greased baking dish and bake in a preheated oven (325 – medium hot) – until set.

Judy’s Pie Crust
3 C. flour
1t. salt
1 C. shortening or 2 sticks margarine
Mix to pea size.
In a separate bowl mix and stir in:
5T. cold water
1 egg
t. vinegar

Turn on to a floured board and mix with your hands just until mixed. Don’t over handle. Makes 3 crusts. Can be frozen for later use.

Apple Pie Filling
8 or 9 green apples, thinly sliced
C. sugar
1 t. cinnamon
Mix well.
Pour into pie crust and dot with 1 T. butter before covering with the other crust.
Bake in a pre-heated oven at 375 until done.

Raspberry Razzle
(This was one of my mom’s elementary students’ favorite Thanksgiving treats. Served with dinner, not as a desert.)
1 Package raspberry jello
C. boiling water
1 10 oz. Package raspberries, thawed. Or C. of raspberry jam
1 C. sour cream*
*Sour cream can be made by mixing 1 can of crme de leite and 1 package of plain yogurt.
Mix jello and boiling water until smooth. Add raspberries and sour cream and mix well. Pour into a mold and chill.
To add a little zing, try adding 1 t. lemon zest and garnishing with lemon slices and/or raspberries.

Vocabulary Words:
Turkey……Per
Seasoning….Tempero
Mashed Potatoes..Batata Puree
Sweet Potatoes..Batata Doce
Creamed……Crme de
Corn…….Milho
Onion……..Cebola
Green Beans…Vagem
Pie…….Torta
Pumpkin…….Moranga
(some people call it abobora)
Butternut Squash…Abobrinha
Apple……Ma
Pecan……Noz-pec
Raspberries……Framboesas
Nutmeg……Noz Moscada
Brown Sugar…Aucar Mascavo
Cinnamon…..Canela
Ginger…….Gengibre

Some Specialty Grocery Stores:

Casa Santa Luzia
Alameda Lorena, 1471
Cerqueira Cesar
Tel.: 3897-5000
www.santaluzia.com.br

Emporio Santa Maria
Av. Cidade Jardim, 790
Jardim America
Tel.: 3816-4344
www.emporiosantamaria.com.br

Monica Trentini was born in Boston, Massachusetts, and was raised in Belo Horizonte and Rio de Janeiro. She lives in São Paulo with her Brazilian husband and two children. She has a cookie business, making and selling baked cookies, cookie dough and festive pizza-size cookies. The recipes in this article are also available in Portuguese. If you would like more information, or if you have any comments on the article, please contact Monica Trentini at cookiedoughtogo@yahoo.com